Simon Calder's report on Naples Posted On 03.10.07 Simon Calder, Travel Writer   ........................................................................................................................................ Introduction Italy’s third city once had a reputation for being noisy, dirty and crime-ridden. But today, says Simon Calder, it’s a beautiful and civilised place, and the perfect base for exploring the stunning Amalfi coast. An Italian masterpiece on the Med: that sums up the civilised and cultured city of Naples. The city's busy harbour connects the Italian mainland with islands great and small, from Sicily to Capri - and is the reason for Naples' long existence. The Greeks founded a new city (‘neapolis’) here hundreds of years before the birth of Christ. The name evolved to ‘Napoli’, and the rest is chequered history. Start amid the jumble of streets that form the historic centre. This is where to find the city's signature dish, the pizza Margherita: simply tomato, mozzarella and basil, bursting with flavour and goodness. To experience la dolce vita, Naples-style, wander into the vast, echoing Galleria Umberto I, where rich Neapolitans go to shed some of their excess wealth. Naples’ golden age was the first half of the 17th century. Wander along the Via dei Tribunali, picking off the Baroque palaces and churches from that illustrious time. Wherever you are in Naples, you are always conscious of Vesuvius, the beautiful volcano above the bay to the south. You can wander to the summit, then inspect the once-thriving city of Pompeii, frozen in a moment of time and tragedy by the eruption of AD79 wrought on the thriving city of Pompeii. Both Vesuvius and Pompeii are accessible via the Circumvesuviana railway line from Naples. And at the other end of the line lies Sorrento, a civilised resort with a lively centro storico and waterfront views. This is also the starting point for one of the great little road trips of Europe. For more than 30 sinuous kilometres, a thread of highway laces between a placid sea and the majestic limestone cliffs. At Positano, clamber through the gorgeous clutter of pastel-painted houses that cling to the hills. Further east, visit picturesque Amalfi, which bestows its name upon the whole coast. Then climb to Ravello, 500m above the Med for a sunset drink with the ultimate view: the Villa Cimbrone, created by an English nobleman on what feels like the edge of the world. ........................................................................................................................................ Best Avoided Driving: while you may find it tempting to pick up a car at Naples airport to explore this fascinating area, it will prove nothing but a liability in the city. Locations on the Bay of Naples are accessible by frequent trains. And while the Amalfi Coast is made for motoring, not all of us are lucky enough to possess the Italian driving gene. Regular buses provide a low-cost alternative – and free you up to enjoy the view. High summer:July and (especially) August are good times not to be in the Bay of Naples region. While traffic in the city centre subsides, many enterprises catering for locals will be closed. The heat this far south is intense. And at key sites such as Pompeii, the crowds can be overwhelming. ........................................................................................................................................ Need to Know The good thing about Naples airport is that it is extremely convenient for the city centre, being 15 minutes or less by taxi or bus. But it is also a crowded and confusing gateway that is far too small for the needs of the 21st century: expect a certain amount of chaos when you arrive, and allow plenty of time for formalities for your homebound flight. Strikes are so frequent in Italy that there is even an industrial relations ‘czar’, a strikes commissioner who keeps the locals up to date with planned industrial action. In travel – particularly aviation, rail and local public transport – strikes are commonplace. Stoppages, whether by air-traffic controllers or tram drivers, are normally announced well in advance, giving some the chance to prepare. ........................................................................................................................................ TC Tips The Amalfi Coast is my favourite drive of all of Europe. Have mid-morning coffee in Sorrento, lunch in Positano and spend the afternoon in Amalfi. But one day is not enough – there are just so many great cafes, restaurants and places of interest, you will not be able to do this in less than a week. Trevor Smith, Travel Counsellor Naples does not have the same high level of tourist-focused street crime as Rome. But as a large city with pockets of poverty, some pick-pocketing and bag-snatching prevails. Obvious signs of wealth, such as expensive cameras and jewellery, should be kept in your hotel room – along with precious documents such as passports and tickets. Women travellers who can cope without a handbag will probably have a more relaxing trip. Simon Calder, travel writer A visit to Capri is a must. The island is a combination of simple living and busy glitz. Regular summer services operate from Sorrento and Positano. David Jones, Travel Counsellor To see the views from the sea rather than the road, there are lots of boats that you can hire for a trip between Positano and Amalfi, most with a driver. A rib (rubber inflatable boat) takes up to eight people and provides a most exhilarating ride – but it’s too fast and bumpy to take photos Jane Zollo, Travel Counsellor A trip to Pompeii really warrants a full day to see the whole site. As an alternative, try Herculaneum (Ercolano). This is a town rather than a city and is better preserved than Pompeii as it was not covered by lava, only mud and debris when Vesuvius erupted in 79AD. David Jones, Travel Counsellor A must is the 3 Michelin Star Don Alfonso Restaurant Don Alfonso 1890 in Sant Agata for fantastic food and service. Be sure to ask for a tour of the wine cellar after dinner. Also try a different glass of wine with each course Jane Zollo, Travel Counsellor You don’t need to tip as extravagantly as the American cruise-ship passengers visiting Naples, who have created a certain amount of ‘tip inflation’ with their 15 or even 20 per cent hand-outs. The average Italian waiter or taxi driver expects much less from the typical client: five per cent is generous, and a few euros as a modest gesture of thanks is sufficient. Simon Calder, travel writer