Martin Symington's report on the Algarve Posted On 20.03.07 Martin Symington's Algarve Report   ........................................................................................................................................ Introduction Slice Portugal’s south coast into three roughly equal pieces and you have a trio of quite distinct Algarves: the wild, sea-surged west, the picturesque flatlands to the east and a section in between that throngs with holidaymakers. The middle chunk has pretty much everything a summer holiday needs - blazing sunshine, long beaches backed by sandstone cliffs and washed by the Atlantic tide, and some of the best water and land sports anywhere in Europe. For an easy, effortless - if pricey - holiday, go for the large exclusive estates bordering the beaches west of Faro. Each is made up of whitewashed villas with pools, manicured lawns, golf courses and tennis courts, restaurants and nightspots, plus a flagship five-star hotel. You rub shoulders with international sports and showbiz stars and because these estates are self-contained, they are safe for families. Teenagers get up to their legendary hi-jinks at Vale do Lobo. It is cheaper to stay at resorts such as Albufeira and Praia da Rocha. These are busy tourist towns which were once fishing villages and now, in summer at least, are entirely given over to the holiday business. Beach by day and boogie by night. For an idea of the scene, think Ibiza-lite. Eastwards from Faro, villas and resort villages give way to marshy lagoons, nature reserves, salt pans and sandy islands. Beyond these is Tavira, which is touched rather than engulfed by tourism and is one of my favourite towns anywhere in Portugal. Bells peel from 20 churches as the fishing fleet sails up the River Gilao. The quayside is lined with 18th-century classical facades and outdoor restaurants serving freshly-landed swordfish and tuna. In the west beyond Lagos the coast splinters into myriad caves, coves, outcrops and arches. The extremity is Cape St. Vincent, where the rock face is sheer and grey, dropping several hundred metres into the sea while millions of seabirds swirl on the buffeting wind. It is all suitably dramatic for the very corner of a continent. I have known people spend a fortnight without poking their noses outside the gates of their five-star estate. But with a car and a touch of wanderlust, there is a real Algarve to discover. Martin Symington is a freelance travel journalist who writes regularly for the Times and other national newspapers and magazines. He was born and raised in Portugal and has watched the Algarve change from a very poor backwater to a thriving and prosperous holiday destination. Martin has won many awards, including the AA/BGTW Travel Writer of the Year 2005. ........................................................................................................................................ Best Avoided Over-priced seafood in restaurants Sapateira (giant hairy crab) and lagosta (lobster) are caught in the cold, deep Atlantic and are wonderful but most restaurants charge an arm and a leg for a claw and a pincer. If you are self-catering, you can shop at the local markets at Lagos or Quarteira (go as early as possible in the morning) and buy the freshest seafood for a fraction of restaurant prices. Golf in the heat of the afternoon You’ll roast. But unless you book tee-off times in advance, this is all that will be available at the top courses. Ask your Travel Counsellor to book times in the civilised cool of the morning or in the delightful golden light of late afternoon. Medronho This is the local firewater, with a kick like a Monchique mule. It is distilled from tiny arbutus berries. It’s traditionally thrown to the back of the throat in a single shot which is probably a good thing as the taste is rebarbative. If you must try it after dinner, do so with somebody who knows the way home. Tailgaters Many Portuguese drivers, particularly males, think it is a good idea to drive at high speed just a couple of metres behind the car in front. When it happens to you, stay cool, slow down and let them pass. ........................................................................................................................................ Need to Know Getting there There is a huge choice of scheduled full-service, no-frills and charter flights to Faro from airports around the UK. Getting about Car hire is cheaper if you book in advance your Travel Counsellor can help you with this. There is no other practical way of exploring the Algarve. When to go Resorts are open all year but in a lower key way outside the high season of July and August. Autumn and spring are mild, often warm and dry, and a delight for touring and golf. Electricity 220 volts with continental two-pin plugs. You’ll need an adaptor for UK appliances. Clothes Pack a sweater because chilly winds can whip up in the evenings – even in summer. ........................................................................................................................................ TC Tips Martin Symington, Travel Writer Because it is the Atlantic, Algarve sea temperatures are generally quite a bit cooler than the Mediterranean. And the further west you go, the cooler the water. There is a marked difference even between Albufeira, and the beaches around Sagres. It also tends to get windier the nearer you get to Cape St. Vincent. Lauren Savery, Travel Counsellor The Algarve caters perfectly for all ages and it is quick and easy to get to. For golfers, the resorts of Vale do Lobo and Quinta Do Lago are beautiful and very upmarket. Expect to pay more for a good meal there than in Albufeira. Vilamoura is one of my favourite places in the world. It’s only about half an hour from Faro airport and it offers a lovely bubble of holidaying heaven. It’s also upmarket with lots of lovely restaurants around the marina serving all varieties of food. It’s a shoppers’ paradise, so take some plastic. The lovely long beach stretches to the neighbouring resort of Quarteira where there is a bargain-hunter’s weekly market every Wednesday. For golfers, Vilamoura has it all. Most of the large hotels offer free shuttle services to the local courses which are immaculate and good value compared to green fees in the UK. From Vilamoura you can get a bus or taxi to Albufeira to visit the lovely old town where you will find the square with its artists and performances in the summer evenings, and some great fish restaurants by the beach. Early in the mornings you see the fishermen coming back with their catch. There are some lovely little hidden coves with beach restaurants outside Albufeira - perfect for catching rays in peace and quiet. Wish I was there now.