Nigel Tisdall's report on Barbados Posted On 20.03.07 Nigel Tisdall, Travel Writer   ........................................................................................................................................ Introduction Barbados is where many British holidaymakers get their first taste of the Caribbean. Warm, safe and easy, it’s a small, beautiful tropical island where everyone seems to have a good time – jetsetting celebs, golf and cricket fans, lovers of nature and history, families taking a break by the beach. Some visitors go to lie in the sun, others get out and explore. Either way, I reckon it’s a wonderful winter escape. Shaped like a pork chop, Barbados is only 21 miles by 14 with most of the holiday action concentrated along its western and southern coasts. Contrary to expectations, the beaches here are not as wide and empty as you might hope, and some suffer from heavy use. The sheltered west side of the island, its so-called ‘Platinum Coast’, is where you’ll find the five-star hotels, smart restaurants, polo fields and villas fit for famous footballers – even Prime Ministers. The east coast of Barbados is much wilder and less developed, buffeted by the deep blue waves of the Atlantic. In between lie undulating green hills where sugar cane fields and ruined windmills are reminders of the days of slaves and plantations. Barbados has a unique connection with Britain that dates back to 1627, and its maps are full of engagingly familiar place-names like Folkestone, Scarborough and Scotland. Historic houses such as Francia Plantation and St Nicholas Abbey bring this past to life, while the capital, Bridgetown, with its fast food outlets and shops catering to visiting cruise ships, reflects the growing influence of the US on Bajan culture. To get the best of Barbados, you’ll need to hire a car for a few days or join some organised excursions. Though best known for beach holidays, this is a lovely island that offers much more, with good walking and riding inland, and cultural attractions that include bountiful gardens, heritage sites, vibrant festivals plus the ever-popular rum distillery tours. Barbados is also sunny, friendly and still touchingly English - and that’s why everyone keeps going back. Nigel Tisdall is Travel Editor of Marie Claire magazine and writes regularly for the travel pages of the Daily and Sunday Telegraph. “Getting to know the Caribbean is a lifetime job” he explains, “and I’ve probably got another twenty islands to go – which is an awful lot of rum punch.” A recipient of many awards, Nigel was recently named AITO Travel Writer of the Year 2005 by the Association of Independent Tour Operators. ........................................................................................................................................ Best Avoided Hurricanes Barbados has been fortunate to escape the hurricane damage that has devastated other parts of the Caribbean in recent years. September is the traditional month to avoid, but tropical storms can occur anytime between June and November. The coolest, driest weather in Barbados is from January to May. Over-priced restaurants Eating out in Barbados is expensive, and often not sufficiently exceptional to justify the high cost. If you’re on a budget or travelling with kids, consider self-catering or staying at an all-inclusive resort. That said, there are some lovely beachside restaurants – two to try are Lone Star and Daphne’s, both in St James – book ahead. Getting lost Driving in Barbados is an entertaining experience – the maps make little sense, the road signs are confusing, and nowhere seems to be where it should be. If you hire a car, be aware that everywhere takes longer to get to than you think. Petrol stations are not that common, and it’s best to get home before dark as driving in the unlit interior of the island is like wearing a blindfold in a maze. ........................................................................................................................................ Need to Know Money The local currency is the Barbados dollar, but US dollars are often accepted too. The exchange rate is pegged with one US dollar always equal to just under two Barbados dollars. Credit cards are widely used. Shopping Rum, crafts, art and beach clothes are popular buys, but don’t get too excited. Driving If you hire a car, you’ll have to buy a Barbados driving permit for US$5, which is available through the rental company. Driving is on the left (more or less). Electricity The local current is 110 volts with flat-pin plugs so UK appliances will need an adapter. Clothes Smart casual rules. Beachwear is for the beach. ........................................................................................................................................ TC Tips Nigel Tisdall, Travel Writer Barbados has its own National Trust overseeing a wealth of atmospheric houses, gardens and historic sites around the island. If you belong to the National Trust or National Trust for Scotland, don’t forget to take your membership card as you can then get free or discounted admission. Jessica Taylor, Travel Counsellor For very special dining in Barbados, consider treating yourself to a meal at the Cliff restaurant. It’s on a cliff on the West Coast in the open air with the sea lit up underneath. It’s certainly not cheap – a three course meal with wine will cost around £100 a head but I thought it was an amazing experience and worth the money. Oistins on the South coast is best on Friday nights with cheap freshly cooked fish to eat on the beach. I found a choice of music and dancing - hip and current for the ‘youngsters’ and great ‘Golden Oldie’ classics for the more mature! St Lawrence Gap is well known as a party place but late at night visitors can find the strip of bars just too busy and too loud. My two-week trip was with Bajans and I stayed in private accommodation but I did check out three hotels in Barbados. The Villa Nova is beautiful but secluded and not on a beach. Crystal Cove is pretty but very compact and bijoux with a very small beach. The Crane is also gorgeous with great rates at the moment but it is slightly out of the way. Michelle Elgin, Travel Counsellor I also recommend Friday night at Oistins -a great opportunity to meet the locals. And for restaurants in Barbados, my vote also goes to The Cliff – one of the top restaurants in the world. Ask your agent to book it for you before you go. Great food and a fantastic atmosphere – the best dining in Barbados.