Linda Fox's report on the Basque Country Posted On 20.03.07 Linda Fox, Travel Writer   ........................................................................................................................................ Introduction If you leave the Basque country and you haven’t eaten well you’ve missed the point. Local culture revolves around eating and drinking which makes for relaxed and sociable holidays. The Basque country stretches from around Bayonne in South West France over the border to Bilbao in Northern Spain and across to Pamplona. The area has held onto its unique culture and identity and you’ll find green, mountainous landscape and stretches of long sandy beaches. This is not the Spain or France of fast food and overdeveloped tourism. On the Spanish side, the Basques have their own version of tapas, known as ‘pinchos’ and how you order and eat them sums up the relaxed way of life. Locals help themselves from the cold selection on the bar or order from a menu of hot pinchos (See Need To Know for best times). Pinchos cost from 1.15 euros, while a portion-una racion is enough for two or three people to nibble and costs from 3 euros. The idea is to stroll from bar to bar having a glass of wine or beer and a pincho such as fish or ham croquettes (croquetas), a slice of the juiciest tortilla de patata (potato omelette) or chorizo cooked in cider. There is no ceremony involved and often no cutlery just cocktail sticks and paper napkins which you throw on the floor when you’re finished. There is also an unspoken trust not to pay until the end. People keep a tally and let the bartender know what they’ve had. Eating is a way of life in the Basque region but there is more to do and see. San Sebastian, the former summer residence of the kings, combines beach, shopping in the streets off the main tree-lined Hiribidea, good nightlife and culture with the refurbished theatre about to reopen. On the French side, life is more about surfing, shopping and chocolate. Biarritz offers all three with its surfing championships, shops like Galeries Lafayette and a chocolate museum with tours, tastings, a special programme for children and the all-important shop. Former fishing port St Jean de Luz is also a must even if it’s just to soak up the atmosphere of affluence over a coffee in one of the bars, La Baleine, Le Majestique or La Marine around the main square. Linda Fox is a freelance journalist who has worked on several leading business to business titles. Specialising in travel, technology and hospitality she likes to think she knows her onions. Linda's husband was born and raised in the Basque country hence her frequent trips and love of the region. When not frantically meeting deadlines Linda looks after her two small children Freddy and Elena. ........................................................................................................................................ Best Avoided Pricey restaurants For just a few pounds you can feast on tapas (known as pinchos) in most bars. Smoky bars and cafes Spain has just introduced no-smoking laws but many places in the region have consulted their clientele and elected to allow smoking. Late night Avoid walking in the small streets deep in San Sebastian’s old town (la parte vieja) late at night. It’s best to stick to the outer streets of the old town as there have been problems in the past during the summer and fiestas. Biarritz’ building works The two main squares in Biarritz– Clemenceau and Bellevue – are currently being made into pedestrian zones with underground parking. However most work is scheduled to finish this month. ........................................................................................................................................ Need to Know Shopping Shops on the Spanish side are generally open from 10am to 1pm; and from 4pm to 8pm. On the French side, opening hours are usually 9am to 12pm; and 2pm to 6pm. Time for nibbles The best time for tapas (pinchos) is from 12pm to 2pm and from 7.30pm to 9pm. Good places to try ‘pinchos’ include almost anywhere in the old town of San Sebastian (Donostia in the Basque language). In Fuenterrabia (Hondarribia), both Enbata and Yola Berri are well-established and favourites with the locals. Identification You will need some form of identity, e.g. a driving licence or passport, when you use a credit card. Language People in the Basque region are fiercely proud of their identity and many speak in Basque. The area is far less commercialised than the South of Spain so you may have to get by with sign language or a smattering of French or Spanish. High Seas The whole region is a surfers’ paradise so watch out for children if the water gets choppy. Sporting summers In the summer there are Basque games tournaments every day. These include pelota (a version of handball), pala (using a small wooden racket) and cesta punta (using a scoop shaped racket). ........................................................................................................................................ TC Tips Elisa Yarkony, Travel Counsellor The Basque country is beautiful, steeped in history and has gorgeous unspoilt beaches. Visit it to see the ‘real Spain’ before the region becomes over-developed. Basque people are fiercely independent but everyone is friendly and English isn't widely spoken. These are hardy people who for years have been under the terror rule of ETA. However in March this year ETA announced a ceasefire. The people of the Basque region are over the moon about this. My grandfather was a born and bred Basque, and very proud of it too. Julie Savill, Travel Counsellor Bilbao is only really interesting for the Guggenheim but the gorgeous city of San Sebastian is a short train ride away. I love the evening ritual from around 7pm when bars in the old town serve tapas and everybody wanders in and out socializing. I lived in Spain for four years and these were the best tapas. The local drink is Pacharan, a berry liquor which is drunk more like wine. Some of the smaller towns along the coast like Mundaka, Bermeo and Zarautz are pleasant if you have a car. They are great surfing locations so accommodation can be hard to find if you visit the coast during the summer surfing championships but the atmosphere is great. Jessica Taylor, Travel Counsellor St Jean De Luz, just 10kms from Biarritz is a great place with fantastic sandy beaches. It's a medieval town with Moorish influences, lots of lovely winding cobbled streets scattered with monuments and old churches. At night it comes alive with open air restaurants and street entertainment. A Basque Choir traditionally sings in one of the squares every summer Sunday morning. There are the best fish restaurants I have ever experienced - fresh spicy fish soup is a traditional starter I can highly recommend - and most places have a live fish tank where you can choose what you will eat. The Grand Hotel, part of the Leading Hotels of the World group, is in a beautiful, hundred-year old building on the sea front and perfect for a long weekend break.