Oliver Bennett's report on China Posted On 20.03.07 Oliver Bennett, Travel Writer   ........................................................................................................................................ Introduction On my first trip to Beijing last year, I saw a city on the way up - in more ways than one. Everywhere, it seems, skyscrapers are spiralling as China's capital city squares up to its role as host to next year's Olympic Games. It's a frantic, giddy city - and utterly exciting. Shortly, Beijing will be on everyone's lips. Already tourism is booming, and recently China rose to number four on the World Tourism Organisation's destination chart. Most visitors will take in Beijing's big hitting sights, and top among them is Tiananmen Square, epicentre of the People's Republic. Could it really be 17 years since students took on tanks in this vast square? I looked around as red flags fluttered in the wind, and reflected on the enormity of China and its new position on the world stage. On one side of the square is the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, where the embalmed leader still lies. On the other is the Forbidden City: one of the most astounding historical sites in the world, and where generations of rulers lived until 1924 when Pu Yi, 'The Last Emperor', left. It's called 'Forbidden' because once commoners weren't allowed. Now it is full of tourists. But the site is so big that it absorbs the crowds and, amid the courtyards, palaces, gates and frescoed colonnades, you'll find places to fan away the muggy air. The early emperors went to Beijing’s Summer Palace for respite. Here the imperial architecture is more leisurely, arranged around hills, gardens and the glorious Kunming Lake, where dragon-shaped boats glide past pagodas. Blissful. But if there's only time for one monument, then it should be the Great Wall. My heart leapt at the first sight of it from the road. Like the pyramids, this remarkable monument, which tracks a mountainous 5,000km route, doesn't fail to elicit a gasp from the most cynical of travellers. At teeming Badaling, a small town serving Great Wall tourism, the visitor runs the gauntlet of hawkers selling kites, silk, puppets. It's fun, but when you see the Great Wall's castellations snake into the distance, shopping seems a waste of time. I walked as far as I could along the wall, taking in the amazing views. After Beijing, I flew to Hainan, an island in the south of China. Most visitors to China take in Beijing and Xian for the Terracotta Warriors - possibly a cruise on the Yangtze - and then conclude a culture-focussed trip. But increasing numbers are now going to this beach resort to find a new, resort-based China. It takes four hours to get from Beijing to Hainan's Yalong Beach's growing strip of hotels, including a Sheraton and a Marriott. Hainan's nickname is 'China's Hawaii', and after all that history, you deserve a tropical lounge. After long childhood summers being dragged around Italian churches by his parents, Oliver Bennett studied art history before becoming a journalist. He writes newspaper and magazine features on many subjects including travel. Oliver lives in central London, has two children and finds it a little harder to get away these days - but always manages to find time for countries he hasn't visited before such as the People's Republic of China. "It's one of the fascinating and fastest-growing destinations in the world," says Oliver. "If you want to see the fruits of an ancient civilisation and experience a society undergoing the most astonishing change, you should definitely contemplate China." ........................................................................................................................................ Best Avoided Politics China is changing fast, but there is not yet a culture of open debate. Conversations about human rights, Tibet, and the students of Tiananmen Square may embarrass locals. Tough, you might reasonably argue, but remember that etiquette and 'face' are important in China. Shopping at Badaling Don't steam in and buy souvenirs from the aggressive vendors at Badaling and the Great Wall. It's best to wait till you go to a mall in Beijing - better choice, lower prices, more competition. Protected species for supper The food is one of the great reasons to go to China, and it is a great source of delight and on occasion, disgust. So go ahead and be adventurous but remember that some dishes - including some kinds of Shark's Fin soup, for instance - may be made from protected species. You may also be distressed to find turtle on some menus. ‘Designer’ shopping Bear in mind that all those lovely Kate Spade handbags, North Face jackets and up-to-the-minute DVDs that you will encounter in Chinese markets are likely to be fake. The counterfeiting industry is massive in China. ........................................................................................................................................ Need to Know Weather The summer is hot and humid in Beijing and Xian. If possible, travel in spring or autumn. Winter is cold in the north but can be clear and there are fewer crowds. Language If you're going out on your own, get a Chinese friend or the concierge to write your hotel address in Mandarin on a piece of paper. Don't assume that taxi drivers can read English words or even Roman characters. If travelling independently, extend this principle to include all important addresses. Taxi tours If you find a taxi driver you like and who speaks a bit of English, consider visiting the Great Wall outside of a tour group. You'll be able to find parts of the Wall that aren't as touristy as Badaling, and as long as you negotiate in advance, prices should be keen by British standards. Business cards Get a business card printed, whether you're on business or not. It's a major part of Chinese protocol to offer a card to contacts, and it can make the difference between keeping things cool and breaking the ice. Listings magazines Look out for English-language magazines in the big cities, particularly Beijing and Shanghai. They have all kinds of listings and can be more up to date than guide books for pointing out the newest, hottest bars and restaurants. Peking duck Try the Quanjude Roast Duck in Beijing. Yes, it's touristy, but somehow the experience remains essential. The duck is carved at your table, and the Susie Wong décor - all yellow lacquer and red lanterns - is a delight, especially after the somewhat soulless canteens that you still find in China. 32 Qianmen Dajie (0086 10 670 11379) ........................................................................................................................................ TC Tips Oliver Bennett, Travel Writer Try some tai chi. This graceful martial art is practiced by many Chinese people first thing in the morning and it is a great way to wake up and face the day. Many hotels offer tai chi practice: ask your concierge. Ask people to take your photograph. The Chinese love taking photographs of each other in front of monuments, and will often ask visitors to do the honours. It's a lovely way to meet local people and there's no cause for alarm as the Chinese tend to be highly honest. Sam McCann, Travel Counsellor In Beijing, take the time to rise early one morning and head to Tiantan Park for 6am. You will find a surprisingly large gathering of local people waiting to enter the park when the gates open at 6am and once opened, take a stroll around this beautiful park and observe. You will find individuals and groups practising their daily exercise routines, whether this be Tai Chi, Yoga, or even Western Style dance routines. It is invigorating to watch and you may even find yourself joining in. Some locals also bring along their caged birds to hang on nearby trees while their owners sit and chat or read the newspaper - China's alternative to dog walking. Karen Hobbs, Travel Counsellor Leave yourself some free time in Beijing for shopping in Silk Alley. Climbing the Great Wall is a must - but it is a climb. So wear appropriate shoes and allow yourself plenty of time.